Making the Leap: Tips for Going From Plastic to Rock

Climbing indoors is a great way to build skills and confidence, but the transition to real rock can be a bit of a shock. The holds aren’t coloured, the routes aren’t graded in the same way, and the ground is a lot less forgiving. Here are some essential tips to help smooth the move from gym plastic to UK rock.

1. Start With the Right Crag (Sport Climbing, West Country)

Pick beginner-friendly crags: solid rock, short routes, easy access.

• Great first-timers’ sport crags: Cheddar Gorge (roadside) or Portland (The Cuttings or Battleship)

• Avoid polished horror shows or scary landings until confidence builds.

2. Learn to Read the Rock

Unlike indoor climbing, there’s no colour coding. You’ll need to develop an eye for features like cracks, slopers, and hidden foot & hand holds.

• Tip: Practice “reading” the line before you get on it.

• Expect friction, smearing, and jamming to play a bigger role than inside.

3. Dial in Your Footwork

Plastic can spoil you with big footholds. Outdoors, trust in smaller edges and smears is crucial.

• Try climbing indoors with less reliance on coloured footholds to simulate real rock.

• Practice precision and silent feet.

4. Understand Outdoor Grades

A V2 indoors doesn’t translate to a V2 outside. Grades on rock are often stiffer and more condition-dependent.

• Embrace the sandbag! Take it slow and don’t chase numbers on your first few sessions.

• British trad grading system? That’s a whole new game—ask a local!

5. Respect the Environment

• Brush off chalk after use

• Stick to paths to reduce erosion

• Don’t climb on wet sandstone

• Check access status via BMC RAD app

6. Safety First: Know Your Systems

Even on single-pitch sport routes, there are extra risks. Learn how to:

• Assess anchors and belays

• Clean routes safely

• Correct rope work techniques m

• Use a guidebook or app properly (and bring a backup battery!)

If you’re unsure—go with someone experienced or book a session with our qualified instructor.

7. Bring the Right Kit

A few items that might not live in your gym bag:

• Helmet (absolutely vital)

• QuickDraws (approx 12-14)

• Rope (60m dynamic, 9.5mm or above)

• Screwgate or tri-lock carabiners (x2)

• Lanyard with locking carabiner (Petzl Connect Adjust or a 60cm Dynema sling, to use with a locking carabiner)

• Harness

• Climbimg shoes

• Approach shoes

• Chalk bag with a belt

• Weather-appropriate layers

• A map or offline topo app

• Water!

8. Find a Mentor or Group

There’s no substitute for climbing with people who’ve done it before.

• Join a local club or Facebook group

• Get to know people at your local wall

• Look for beginner-friendly meetups or guided courses (like TuFa runs)

Making the leap from plastic to rock isn’t just about harder climbs—it’s a whole new adventure. With the right prep, a bit of humility, and good company, it can open up a lifetime of exploring the best climbing the UK has to offer.